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Discussion in 'The 1911 Forum' started by 68c15, Dec 17, 2016.
I hope you know I was joking and I hope you were too.
You know that he takes your advice as gospel. Oh No! You didn't put up a disclaimer .
I don't think he knows you were joking, cause we haven't heard from him. I think he is on his way to the hardware store!
Todd called me and is sending it to me.
He new I was joking.
With any luck you can get the roll pin out. I used green loctite
Not a problem I will just hit it with the torch for 10 min.
Inquiring minds want to know. Will you be using a little torch or a BIG one.
The biggest I have.
I think it is called a cutting torch.
I will get that pin out of there even if I have to cut it out.
I will just tig the frame back together again.
I went ahead and saved you some time by getting the pin out. I center punched it then drilled it out. The bit wasn't exactly center or straight so the hole in frame is a little bigger on the left side. Not a big deal for someone with your skill. I have faith you can make a new safety with bigger pivot, more strength that way. Right?
Something tells me this is going to be a bigger job then I was thinking.
Lets see Hmmmmm
One hole bigger then the other and 1/4 inch of Paint, a amp. safety that will not fit.
Yea this is going to be a fun job,
I can't wait till I see the 10s and what is wrong with them.
A Job like when a customer neglects saying "Oh yea it fires when you close the bolt without pulling the trigger."
Well, what happened? Enquiring minds want to know.
And pictures or it didn't happen
It's Todds gun. Trust me, it happened.
Once had a customer drop off a previously owned 870 he'd just purchased with the complaint "it doesn't click". And that's exactly what our part-timer wrote on the repair tag - doesn't click. The shotgun had been fitted with a release trigger: pull the trigger - nothing (no click), release the trigger - click (bang, if there's a round in the chamber).